Back in July of 2011 both my and my girlfriend’s bicycles were stolen at the same time. The bicycles were thankfully later returned. Before that happened though we hung posters up everywhere trying to get them back. An nice old couple saw one of our posters, and while they had not seen our bikes, they did have an old one sort-of like mine in their garage that they wanted to sell. The day I arranged to visit them I ended up leaving with not just one but three old bicycles; one was garage kept and clean, the others kept dry but outside and had rusted.
One of the rusted bikes is a green Apollo 10 speed from 1976 with 27″x1¼” tires. The frame on this bike is a massive 62cm. The bike, like almost every other bike in Canada’s west coast from the 60′s-70′s, has a “Fred Deeley Cycles Ltd” badge on the seat tube. Fred Deeley Cycles Ltd of Vancouver was the only importer and supplier of European and Asian bicycles in the province at the time.
The bicycle is made by a parade of Japanese manufacturers. Shifters, dérailleurs, freewheel and gears from Shimano, rims by Araya, cranks from Sugino, and brakes and stem from Taiwanese Dia-Compe. The rear dérailleurs is branded “Shimano 500,” while the front is “Shimano 50.” The brakes are top pull. The rig is either early or cheap Japanese, as the rear gears use a free a freewheel rather than a cassette, and the cranks are cottered. Everything on the bike was made of steel too; the rims, hubs, cranks and even the drop handlebars are steel.
The bike came with a lot of extras: “suicide” brake levers, dynamo and lights kit, chromed fenders, rat-trap rear rack, horn and a plastic Norco cable driven speedometer. The fenders were bent and rusty, the speedometer cable was broken, the horn’s rubber ball busted, but the dynamo still worked. I took all this stuff off as it was mostly useless.
Having been kept outside, all of the chromed surfaces were rusting. Despite this rust issue, the bike seemed to ride well so I sold it to a roommate. He rode for a few weeks until the rear hub started to shrink. The hub was of a crimped-together multiple part body design. Rust had penetrated in between the crimps of the flanges, cups and spacing tube and the forces from cycling had crushed them into each other. The flanges ceased to be parallel and the wheel went way out of true.
I bought the bicycle back from my roommate and decided to rebuild it whenever I had time. After some months I set about the task this past February. When setting in, I decided that both the front and rear wheels were too rusted to be repairable. The freewheel and gears were in good shape, so I took the rear wheel to North Park Bicycle Shop to have the freewheel unscrewed. The hub, rim and spokes were so rusty they warned that it wasn’t safe to ride on… oops. After stripping the bike down I removed as much rust as I could from the frame with a wire brush, steel wool and 5000 grit wet-sandpaper. In the places where bare steel was exposed I used a spray-on clear acrylic to protect the metal.
For the rear wheel I decided to make one from some spare parts I had lying around. I had a wheel with an aluminium rim and crimped hub that had also rusted out in the same way, and a perfect steel Shimano hub from a 26″x1⅜” wheel which I had stolen the rim from for another project. As the rim flanges were the same diameter and distance apart, all I had to do was swap the hubs.
I’m not sure why wheel building isn’t very popular today. I have yet to meet someone who regularly builds wheels. Maybe it’s because a used but decent wheel is usually $25 while a set of 36 new spoke is $28. In either case, it isn’t that hard. One evening of hanging out and drinking beer, and a trip to Recyclistas to borrow their truing stand and replace some bad spoke nipples later, I had a new aluminium rear wheel. While at Recyclistas I also picked up a pair of used pedals and a new chain.
For the front wheel I decide to be lazy and got a used aluminium wheel with a quick-release axle from Bicyclitis. While there I also got a matching new tire for the rear, a used pair of Shimano Atlas stem shifters, and a set of Shimano Dura-Ace cable ties (oh-la-la). To round off my new-parts list I visited three more shops.
From Fairfield Bicycle Shop I bought some Cat’s Eye brand front and rear LED lights. Cat’s Eyes are cheap, so you don’t care if someone steals them, but bright, easy to mount, easy to change batteries, and don’t turn off if you hit a bump (an uncommon feature in the cheap light range.)
From Performance Bicycles I bought black bar tape. They have this faux-leather microfiber stuff with little holes in it like you would see on a tennis racket. I love it, it is neither too firm like plain vinyl, nor too soft like the thick faux-cork.
Finally from the MEC downtown I got a pair of black fender’s. I debated getting a new rear-rack too, but held off as I could always get one later. The fenders were long and had huge mud-flaps, longer than the EVO ones I had bought before. MEC’s bicycle parts selection is surprising. They don’t really do old bicycles, but they do have great racks, panniers, fenders, tires and tubes, all cheaper than at “dedicated” bike stores. Their selection of bicycle tools is also pretty wide and cheap.
After a bit of assembly and tweaking, the photos bellow show the result. This is the first bicycle I’ve rebuilt not to have steel rims. I quite like this bike, it’s rather pretty in my opinion, but then all old road bikes are pretty to me, green is my favourite colour, and I had put 10+ hours into it. It rides very well, and the new chain makes it silent. The Shimano dérailleurs still work very well. In total I visited six bicycle shops/societies when fixing this bicycle, quite the tour, and I still didn’t visit them all. I think it is great that we have so many bicycle shops and societies here in Victoria.
The bicycle is currently not sold, although it is being lent out. If you are in the Victoria area, are between 6′ and 6’3″ tall and need a bike, send me an email.
Multiple-monitor support for X11 has greatly improved from when I started using it. For starters, you no longer have to edit a root-owned text file and restart your Xserver. Now we have the X11 RandR 1.2 extenstion and you can used use the command line on-the-fly or one of the many GUIs to change your output configuration. (If you don’t think this feature is that amazing, fair enough.)